Pad Kra Pao

Why it works

Holy basil, not Thai basil, is the whole point. It has a peppery, clove-like heat that wilts into the sauce and perfumes the pork. The sauce is just fish sauce, oyster sauce and a little soy and sugar, so the balance comes from the ratio, not from a long ingredient list. Cook it hot and fast and serve it over rice with a fried egg with crispy edges.

Method

1. Pound the chilies and garlic in a mortar into a rough paste. Chunky is right; you want pieces of garlic that crisp in the oil.
2. Mix oyster sauce, fish sauce, both soys, sugar and water in a small bowl so you can add it all at once.
3. Fry the eggs first. Heat 3 tbsp of oil in the wok until it shimmers, crack in the eggs and spoon hot oil over the whites until the edges are lacy and brown. Set aside.
4. Pour off all but 1 tbsp of oil. Add the chili-garlic paste and stir for 20 seconds until fragrant.
5. Add the pork and break it up over high heat. Once it has lost its pink, pour in the sauce and toss until the liquid has nearly cooked off.
6. Kill the heat, add the holy basil and fold until just wilted. Serve over rice with the egg on top and a side of prik nam pla.

Notes and substitutions

• If you can only find Thai (sweet) basil, the dish is still good, but call it pad horapa and expect a sweeter, anise-leaning flavor.
• Holy basil bruises quickly. Buy it the day you cook it, or freeze the leaves flat in a bag and add them frozen.
• Three chilies is a comfortable Thai medium. Five is how most Bangkok shops make it.