Tom Yum Goong

Why it works

The broth is built on three aromatics that do not get eaten: lemongrass, galangal and makrut lime leaves. They infuse, then get pushed aside. The sourness comes from fresh lime added off the heat, because boiled lime juice turns bitter. Nam prik pao (chili jam) gives the creamy version its orange color and a sweet, smoky depth.

Method

1. If the shrimp have heads, pull them off and simmer them in the stock for 10 minutes for a richer base, then discard.
2. Add lemongrass, galangal and lime leaves to the stock and simmer for 5 minutes.
3. Add mushrooms and chili jam. Stir until the jam dissolves.
4. Add the shrimp and cook just until they curl and turn pink, about 2 minutes.
5. Off the heat, add fish sauce, lime juice, chilies and evaporated milk. Taste for a balance of sour first, salty close behind, then heat.
6. Finish with cilantro and sawtooth coriander. Tell people not to eat the galangal.

Notes and substitutions

• For the clear version (tom yum nam sai), skip the chili jam and evaporated milk and add an extra chili.
• Dried galangal is a poor substitute. Frozen galangal works well and keeps for months.