Pad Thai

Why it works

Pad thai fails at home for two reasons: too many noodles in the wok at once, and a sauce that is just ketchup and sugar. Cook no more than two servings per batch so the noodles fry rather than steam. The sauce is tamarind for sour, palm sugar for sweet and fish sauce for salt, simmered until syrupy so it coats instead of pooling.

Method

1. Soak the noodles in room-temperature water for 45 minutes until pliable but still firm. Drain.
2. Simmer tamarind, palm sugar and fish sauce in a small pan for 3 to 4 minutes until slightly syrupy. This is enough sauce for two batches.
3. In a wok over medium-high heat, fry tofu, dried shrimp, preserved radish and shallots in 2 tbsp oil until the shallots soften.
4. Add the shrimp and cook until just pink. Push everything to one side, crack in the eggs, scramble, then combine.
5. Add the noodles and half the sauce. Toss and fold for 2 to 3 minutes until the noodles are tender. Add a splash of water if they stick before they are done.
6. Add bean sprouts and chives, toss for 30 seconds, and plate. Serve with peanuts, lime and chili flakes on the side so each person seasons their own.

Notes and substitutions

• Tamarind concentrate in a jar is much more sour than block tamarind. If using it, start with 1 tbsp and add sugar to balance.
• Preserved radish and dried shrimp are what make it taste like a Bangkok street cart. Both keep for a year in the fridge.